Disappearing Saffron – victim of inefficient farming, government apathy and growing urbanisation
SAFFRON: THE SPICE STORY
Nusrat Ara
World’s Best Saffron Grows Here – A billboard greets you at Pampore, Kashmir’s saffron heartland 15 km from summer capital Srinagar. But the slogan is slowly losing its sheen as the slopes of Pampore are struggling to preserve their prized possession.
The rich aroma of saffron marks all celebrations in Kashmir, as the Saffron Kehwa, a traditional beverage is a must on such occasions. No festivity is considered complete without it. In India the majority Hindu community on various auspicious and religious occasions uses saffron as well as in various traditional ayurvedic medicines.
On the bank on River Jehlum, the karevas of Pampore have for years taken pride in producing the costliest spice in the world. Apart from Kashmir, saffron is grown mostly at two places in the world, Iran and Spain. In Kashmir too, it is only the karevas of Pampore and the Kishtwar valley in Jammu province that are gifted with the rare spice. Saffron is used for various medicinal and culinary purposes. Commonly held belief traces the cultivation of saffron first to Persia, the present day Iran, which still is the largest producer of the spice. While Iran accounts for about 80 per cent of total world production the quality of the Kashmir Saffron is considered the best. Greece, Turkey, Azerbaijan, Morocco, Italy, Egypt and China are other minor producing countries.
In Kashmir Saffron is cultivated in more than 226 villages, which makes its business a significant employer especially in the saffron belt itself. Nowadays, saffron consumption is rising while the production is not keeping pace.
A victim of government apathy and growing urbanisation, Saffron production has over the years reduced from 16 metric tones to a dismal 6 metric tones per annum.
Although the major decline in production can be attributed to decrease in the area under Saffron cultivation and lack of irrigation facilities, experts say farmers are not employing the best (cultivation) practices.
The vast saffron fields remain dormant until mid-October when the bulbs germinate underneath the dry earth sprouting green shoots. In autumn (November) the bulbs bloom with purple flowers colouring the vast dull brown earth into bright purple.
Maryam, 60, married in Srinagar was born in Pampore. She is “emotionally attached” to the Saffron land she inherited from her parents. But the production has been perpetually decreasing. “Earlier I used to lease out the land to a saffron grower who would give me peanuts. Now I am getting better returns but the production on the whole has been decreasing”, says Maryam. Many reason are being cited for the gradual decline in saffron production.
(Rising Kashmir)